Oval Diamond Engagement Ring: The Complete Guide

The oval diamond has become one of the most requested shapes for an engagement ring. It keeps the fire of a round diamond, since it is brilliant cut, but with an elongated silhouette that slims the finger and looks larger at the same weight. In this guide: how to choose the stone (proportions, color, clarity), what size to expect for each carat weight, which setting and wedding band go with it, and how much an oval diamond ring costs. All our rings feature lab-grown diamonds certified by IGI or GIA, in 18k gold or platinum, to try on in our 10 showrooms in France.

Contents
Why this diamond · Size and carat: the chart · What to check · Comparing shapes · Which setting · Which metal · Which wedding band · Price · Frequently asked questions

Why choose an oval diamond?

• It looks bigger. A 1-carat oval measures about 8 × 5.7 mm, compared with a 6.4 mm diameter for a round of the same weight: its visible surface is about 10% larger, and its length makes it look even more impressive on the finger.
• It elongates the hand. Set along the length of the finger, it visually slims short fingers and slender hands alike. It is the shape we recommend most often when someone is undecided.
• It sparkles like a round. Its brilliant cut (around fifty facets) returns a great deal of light: it is one of the most brilliant fancy shapes.
• It is easy to wear every day. With no sharp corners, it snags less than pointed shapes such as the pear or marquise, and it is well protected in a prong setting.
• It is both classic and contemporary. Less expected than a round, less assertive than a pear, it moves through trends without aging.

Oval diamond: size, carat and price

Carat measures weight, not size. The chart below gives the usual dimensions of an oval diamond with classic proportions (length-to-width ratio of about 1.40), along with the price of our Montaigne oval solitaire in 18k gold, for each of our three diamond qualities.

To get a sense of it on the finger: at around 0.50 carat, the oval remains discreet and elegant; at 1 carat, it covers the width of a slender finger; from 1.50 carats, it becomes truly spectacular. The simplest way is still to compare several sizes on your own hand, in a showroom.

Choosing your oval diamond: 5 things to check

1. The length-to-width ratio

This is what gives the oval its character. At around 1.35 to 1.45, you get the classic oval, elegant and balanced. Below 1.30, the stone looks rounder; above 1.50, it becomes very elongated, almost marquise-like. To calculate it, divide the length by the width shown on the certificate: 8.02 × 5.71 mm gives a ratio of 1.40. There is no right or wrong choice: it is a matter of taste and of your hand.

2. The “bow-tie” effect

Many ovals show a darker area across the center, shaped like a bow tie. When slight, it adds contrast; when too pronounced, it dulls the stone. It does not appear on a certificate: you need to see the stone in person or on video, from several angles. This is one of the reasons we have our clients choose oval diamonds by appointment.

3. Color

The tips of the oval concentrate color slightly. For a solitaire in white gold or platinum, aim for at least an H color; for a very crisp white, choose F or D. In yellow or rose gold, an H color still looks perfectly white to the eye. We offer three qualities: H/VS2, F/VS1 and D/VVS1.

4. Clarity

The oval’s brilliant cut hides small inclusions well: a VS2 clarity is already eye-clean. Moving up to VS1 or VVS1 is a matter of personal preference rather than anything visible.

5. Proportions and symmetry

A well-cut oval is symmetrical on either side of its two axes, with “shoulders” that are neither too flat nor too full. On the certificate, two benchmarks help: a total depth of about 58 to 62% and a table of about 53 to 63%. Too deep, and the stone looks smaller than its weight; too shallow, and it loses brilliance. Our advisors check these measurements with you before every order. To read a certificate in detail, see our article on lab-grown diamond certification.

Oval or round: which to choose?

The round remains the most brilliant and most timeless shape. The oval offers almost the same brilliance with more presence on the finger and a more contemporary look. At Laveran, for the same carat weight and quality, an oval solitaire costs the same as a round solitaire: the choice comes down to taste alone. Here is how the oval compares with other shapes:

To go further, read our guide which diamond shape to choose for an engagement ring, or which ring to choose for your hand shape.

Which setting for an oval diamond?

• The solitaire showcases the oval simply and directly. Four prongs reveal more of the stone; six hold it even more securely. This is the Montaigne oval, from €880.
• The pavé band carries the sparkle along the shank: this is the Vendôme oval, from €1,280.
• The halo surrounds the oval with a circle of small diamonds and makes it look even larger: this is the Odéon oval, from €1,480.
• More distinctive designs: the Madeleine, the Étoile, the Rive Gauche or the Louvre.

Vertical or horizontal? The oval is traditionally set along the length of the finger, which elongates it. Set horizontally (known as an “east-west” setting), it becomes more graphic and more discreet: we make this version on request.

Yellow, white or rose gold, or platinum?

All our rings are available in 18k yellow, white or rose gold, and in 950 platinum. In yellow gold, the oval takes on warmth and a more vintage look; white gold and platinum enhance the whiteness of the diamond and its icy brilliance; rose gold adds a soft, romantic touch. Platinum is the densest and most durable of the four. To compare them all, see the differences between yellow, rose and white gold.

Which wedding band goes with an oval ring?

An oval solitaire pairs beautifully with a straight wedding band set with pavé diamonds, which sits right against the ring. For a matching set, the Montaigne Oval Diamond Wedding Band echoes the shape of the stone all the way around the finger. If you prefer a finer line, a half-eternity band leaves the spotlight on the solitaire. And to know which order to wear them in, see in which order to wear your engagement ring and wedding band.

What about color?

The oval lends itself beautifully to colored diamonds. Our Montaigne and Vendôme solitaires are available with a blue, pink or yellow oval diamond: an alternative to sapphire, with the hardness of diamond. To learn more, read our article on colored lab-grown diamonds.

How much does an oval diamond ring cost?

At Laveran, an oval solitaire starts at €880 and the 1-carat solitaire is available from €1,744, with an IGI or GIA certificate. The price depends on four things: carat weight, diamond quality (H/VS2, F/VS1 or D/VVS1), setting and metal. The chart above gives the details carat by carat.

A lab-grown diamond costs considerably less than a mined diamond of the same size and quality, which often means you can choose a more generous carat weight for the same budget. To go further: how much a lab-grown diamond costs, the 1-carat lab-grown diamond and the average price of an engagement ring. Our diamond guide also explains each of the 4Cs in detail.

How does buying from Laveran work?

1. You book an appointment in one of our 10 showrooms in France or by video call. The appointment is free, with no obligation.
2. You compare stones and settings. An advisor shows you several oval diamonds, you try them on, and your ring size is taken with a professional ring sizer.
3. We craft your ring in your size, in 18k gold or platinum, with the diamond you chose.
4. You receive your ring with the stone’s IGI or GIA certificate, whose number is laser-inscribed on the diamond.

Frequently asked questions

Does an oval diamond really look bigger than a round?

Yes. At 1 carat, an oval measures about 8 × 5.7 mm compared with a 6.4 mm diameter for a round: its visible surface is about 10% larger, and its elongated shape further enhances the effect on the finger.

What size is a 1-carat oval diamond?

About 8 × 5.7 mm for an oval with classic proportions. Exact measurements vary from stone to stone and are listed on the certificate.

What is the best length-to-width ratio for an oval?

For a classic oval, between 1.35 and 1.45. Below that, it looks rounder; above, more elongated. The best ratio is the one you like on your finger: that is why we show you several.

What is the bow-tie effect?

It is a darker area in the center of some ovals, shaped like a bow tie. It does not appear on the certificate: it is judged by looking at the stone. At your appointment, we show you several stones so you can judge for yourself.

Can an oval be set horizontally?

Yes, on request. Set horizontally (an “east-west” setting), the oval becomes more graphic and more discreet.

Is an oval diamond more expensive than a round?

Not at Laveran: for the same carat weight and quality, our oval and round solitaires are the same price. An oval solitaire starts at €880, and €1,744 at 1 carat.

Which wedding band should I wear with an oval ring?

A straight pavé diamond wedding band sits perfectly against an oval solitaire. For a matching set, the Montaigne Oval Diamond Wedding Band echoes the shape of the stone.

Is a lab-grown diamond a real diamond?

Yes. It is pure carbon, with a hardness of 10 and the same optical properties as a mined diamond; only its origin differs. Each stone is certified by IGI or GIA, with its number laser-inscribed.

Can I see the rings before buying?

Yes, in one of our 10 showrooms in France, by appointment only and with no obligation, or by video call. Each ring is then crafted in your size.

Other diamond shapes: round · cushion · princess · pear · marquise · emerald cut

See also: all our engagement rings · our diamond wedding bands · how to measure your ring size · caring for lab-grown diamond jewelry