Lab-Grown vs. Natural Diamonds: Everything You Need to Know to Choose

By Joe DunneApr 18, 2023

Round lab-grown diamond examined under a gemological loupe to assess its cut, clarity and brilliance according to the 4Cs – Laveran Paris

You've heard of lab-grown diamonds but aren't exactly sure what this stone is, or how it differs from a natural diamond, or from a fake one? This complete guide answers all your questions: origins, HPHT and CVD production processes, quality criteria (the 4Cs), GIA and IGI certifications, and tests to tell a real diamond from cubic zirconia. Whether you're preparing a purchase or simply want to understand this fast-changing market, you'll find all the keys here.

What is a natural diamond?

A natural diamond is a precious stone formed deep in the earth's mantle, about 150 to 200 kilometers below the surface. Under colossal pressure and temperatures above 1,000 °C, carbon atoms gradually crystallize over millions, sometimes billions, of years. The diamonds then rise to the surface during volcanic eruptions, trapped in rock formations called kimberlites, before being extracted through complex mining operations.

It is this rarity of formation and the difficulty of extraction that give the natural diamond its historic status as the precious stone par excellence. For decades it has been the symbol of life's great occasions: engagements, weddings, milestone anniversaries.

What is a lab-grown diamond?

Selection of lab-grown diamonds in a jewelry workshop – Laveran Paris

A lab-grown diamond, also called a laboratory-grown or lab-created diamond, is a real diamond produced in a laboratory under conditions that replicate natural formation. It has exactly the same chemical composition (pure crystallized carbon), the same hardness (10 on the Mohs scale) and the same brilliance as a natural diamond.

It is in no way an imitation. It is often confused with cubic zirconia or crystal, but wrongly so: a lab-grown diamond is a diamond in its own right, recognized as such by the major international gemological organizations, led by GIA and IGI.

HPHT and CVD: the two production methods

Two processes are used to create a lab-grown diamond in a laboratory.

The HPHT method (High Pressure High Temperature) replicates natural formation conditions by subjecting a carbon seed to extreme pressure and very high temperatures. It is the original technique, used since the 1950s, and it produces diamonds whose inclusions sometimes differ slightly from those of natural diamonds.

The CVD method (Chemical Vapor Deposition) is more recent. It grows the diamond layer by layer from a carbon-rich gas introduced into a vacuum chamber. This technique allows very precise control of clarity and color, and today produces the highest-quality lab-grown diamonds.

In both cases, the end result is a certifiable diamond, indistinguishable to the naked eye from a mined diamond.

The 4Cs: how to assess a diamond's quality

Whether natural or lab-grown, every diamond is graded according to the same universal criteria, defined by the GIA (Gemological Institute of America): the 4Cs.

Carat (weight)

Carat refers to the diamond's weight; one carat equals 0.2 grams. It is often the first criterion mentioned, but it should never be considered alone: a poorly cut or low-clarity one-carat diamond will look less beautiful than a well-crafted 0.7-carat diamond. To explore Laveran collections by stone size, our diamond engagement rings page gives you a complete view of the options available.

Clarity

Clarity measures the number and nature of the imperfections in a diamond. There are surface blemishes and internal inclusions, formed as the carbon crystallizes. The grading system runs from IF (Internally Flawless) to P3 (inclusions visible to the naked eye), through VVS1/VVS2, VS1/VS2 and SI1/SI2. Lab-grown diamonds generally have fewer inclusions than natural diamonds, because their formation is controlled.

Color

By definition, a diamond is white, but there are subtle nuances ranging from exceptional white to white with a very slight yellow or brown tint. The GIA color scale runs from D (exceptional white) to Z (heavily tinted). For everyday fine jewelry, grades D to G are the most sought after. Laveran Paris also offers colored diamonds (blue, yellow, pink), available only as lab-grown stones at accessible prices.

Cut

Cut is arguably the most decisive criterion for a diamond's visual beauty. It does not refer to the shape (round, oval, emerald…) but to the quality of the cutter's work: proportions, angles, symmetry, polish. An excellent cut maximizes the refraction of light and gives the diamond its signature sparkle. It is a human craft that applies in exactly the same way to natural and lab-grown diamonds. To learn more about the cuts available, see our diamond guide.

What is the price difference between natural and lab-grown diamonds?

This is one of the things that surprises buyers most: a lab-grown diamond today is 30% to 50% less expensive than a natural diamond with equivalent characteristics (same carat, same color, same clarity, same cut). The difference comes from the absence of mining costs, international logistics and natural scarcity in the laboratory production chain.

In practical terms, this means that for the same budget, you can get a larger stone or one with better clarity by choosing a lab-grown diamond. It is one of the main reasons more and more couples are choosing this option for their lab-grown diamond engagement ring.

Certifications: GIA, IGI, HRD — why they are essential

Whether natural or lab-grown, every quality diamond should come with a gemological certificate issued by a recognized independent laboratory. This document attests to the stone's authenticity and details its 4Cs precisely.

The three leading organizations are:

GIA (Gemological Institute of America): the longest-standing and most widely recognized worldwide, it has certified both natural and lab-grown diamonds for several years.

IGI (International Gemological Institute): very active in lab-grown diamonds, it is today the most widely used reference for lab-grown stones in Europe.

HRD (Hoge Raad voor Diamant, Antwerp): historically essential for European natural diamonds.

An uncertified diamond cannot be considered guaranteed in terms of quality. At Laveran Paris, every diamond is delivered with its certificate, for complete transparency on your purchase.

Diamond vs. cubic zirconia: how to tell the difference

Confusing diamond with cubic zirconia is one of the most common mix-ups in the jewelry world. Cubic zirconia is a diamond imitation, not a diamond. It has neither the same chemical composition, nor the same hardness, nor the same optical properties.

Here are four practical tests to tell them apart:

The dot test

Draw a black dot on a sheet of white paper and place the stone flat on top of it, table side down. If you can clearly see the dot through the stone, it's cubic zirconia. A diamond, thanks to its strong light refraction, doesn't let the image through as clearly.

The hardness test

Diamond is the hardest natural material in existence (10/10 on the Mohs scale). It scratches glass without getting the slightest scratch itself. Cubic zirconia (8.5/10) is more prone to wear and will show marks over time.

The weight test

For the same volume, cubic zirconia is about twice as heavy as diamond. A precision scale is enough to tell them apart if you know the stone's dimensions.

The thermal test

Diamond is an excellent thermal conductor, far better than cubic zirconia. In a room at ambient temperature (20 °C), a diamond will feel colder to the touch because it quickly absorbs the heat from your hand. Cubic zirconia warms up much faster.

Beyond these tests, the only irrefutable proof is a GIA, IGI or HRD certificate. If your piece doesn't come with one, ask a gemologist for an appraisal.

Natural or lab-grown diamond: which should you choose?

There is no universal answer; the choice depends on your priorities.

Choose a natural diamond if you value rarity, tradition and the idea of heirloom value. It is a strongly emotional choice, steeped in history.

Choose a lab-grown diamond if you are looking for the best value for money, greater freedom to customize, a more environmentally responsible approach, or simply a larger stone for the same budget. To discover the house's creations built around this philosophy, explore our vision of ethical fine jewelry.

If you're considering a bespoke piece (an engagement ring, a wedding band, a one-of-a-kind creation), the Laveran Paris bespoke workshop will guide you through the design of a unique piece, in natural or lab-grown diamond, according to your values and your budget.

FAQ — Lab-grown and natural diamonds: your questions

Is a lab-grown diamond a real diamond?
Yes, without any ambiguity. A lab-grown diamond has the same chemical composition, the same hardness and the same brilliance as a natural diamond. The only difference is its origin: formed in a laboratory rather than extracted from the earth. It is certified by the same gemological organizations (GIA, IGI, HRD).

Can you tell a natural diamond from a lab-grown diamond with the naked eye?
No. Even an experienced jeweler cannot tell them apart visually. Only specialized gemological equipment can identify a diamond's origin. That is why certification is essential.

What is the difference between HPHT and CVD?
HPHT replicates natural conditions (high pressure, high temperature); CVD grows the diamond layer by layer from a carbon-based gas. Both produce authentic, high-quality diamonds, with slightly different inclusion profiles.

Which certification should I choose for a lab-grown diamond?
IGI is currently the most widely used reference in Europe for lab-grown diamonds. GIA has also certified lab-grown stones for several years. Both offer a reliable, internationally recognized guarantee.

Does a lab-grown diamond lose value over time?
Its resale value is lower than that of a natural diamond, because it is not based on scarcity. It is designed to be worn and appreciated for its aesthetic qualities, not as a financial investment.

What is the difference between a lab-grown diamond and cubic zirconia?
A lab-grown diamond is a real diamond (crystallized carbon, hardness 10/10). Cubic zirconia is an imitation with no chemical link to diamond; it is heavier, less hard and more prone to wear. A gemological certificate is the only absolute guarantee.

What budget should I plan for a certified lab-grown diamond?
With equivalent characteristics, a lab-grown diamond costs 30% to 50% less than a natural diamond. The savings can be reinvested in a higher carat weight, better clarity or a more elaborate setting.

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