How to Recognize the Hallmarks on Your Gold and Platinum Jewelry

By Joe DunneFeb 25, 2025

Making and hallmarking a gold ring

Gold and platinum jewelry is stamped with distinctive hallmarks that guarantee its authenticity and purity. These official marks make it possible to tell a precious piece from a plated one. Learn to identify these hallmarks to better understand the value of your jewelry and avoid counterfeits.

What is a hallmark on a piece of jewelry?

A hallmark is an official mark stamped on jewelry made of precious metals such as gold and platinum. It certifies the precious metal content and the piece's authenticity. These marks are regulated and are essential for distinguishing solid gold or platinum jewelry from plated jewelry.

The different hallmarks and what they mean

The maker's mark: the goldsmith's signature

The maker's mark, also called the goldsmith's mark, is a distinctive stamp applied by the jeweler who made the piece. It takes the form of a lozenge containing their initials and serves as a true signature, attesting to the authenticity and craftsmanship of its creator.

The fineness mark: a guarantee of the metal's purity

Mandatory on gold and platinum jewelry above a certain weight, the fineness mark certifies the precious metal content of the piece. It guarantees the authenticity and quality of the jewelry, whether it is gold, platinum or silver.

The responsibility mark: identifying the importer

Oval in shape, this mark is used to identify the importer of the precious metal or object. It ensures the traceability and compliance of the piece on the French market.

The guarantee mark: an official mark of quality

The guarantee mark is applied by the manufacturer, an approved inspection body (OCA) or the customs office. It clearly indicates the metal's fineness in thousandths:

375 thousandths (37.5%) minimum for gold,
800 thousandths (80%) for silver,
850 thousandths (85%) for platinum.

Historical hallmarks: a legacy of the past

Before modern regulations, older hallmarks such as the guild mark, the charge mark and the discharge mark provided information about the metal's composition, the year of manufacture, the object's origin and the payment of taxes. Today, these marks often help authenticate antique jewelry and trace its history.

Gold hallmarks

Depending on their purity, gold jewelry in France can bear several distinct hallmarks:

The Seahorse: This hallmark means the piece is made of 100% pure gold (24 karats). However, because pure gold is too malleable, it is rarely used on its own in jewelry.
The Eagle's Head: This hallmark indicates 18-karat gold (750/1000), or 75% pure gold. It is the most common fineness in fine jewelry.
The Scallop Shell: Used for 14-karat gold jewelry (585/1000), it means the piece contains 58.5% pure gold.
The Three-Leaf Clover: It corresponds to 9-karat gold jewelry (375/1000), made of 37.5% pure gold.

These hallmarks authenticate the quality and gold content of a piece, guaranteeing its value and origin.

Gold hallmarks around the world

Hallmarks vary from country to country, and some follow international standards. In these countries, gold is often identified by numbers in thousandths stamped inside a lozenge, representing the metal's purity:

375 (37.5% pure gold)
585 (58.5% pure gold)
750 (75% pure gold)
916 (91.6% pure gold)
990 (99% pure gold)
999 (99.9% pure gold)

These marks are essential for recognizing quality gold, especially when it comes from abroad.

Platinum hallmarks

Platinum is an extremely rare and durable precious metal, prized in fine jewelry for its unique gray luster. Its hallmarks guarantee its authenticity and purity:

Emperor penguin: Applied to 999‰ platinum, used exclusively on new pieces and ingots.
Dog's head: The official hallmark for 950‰ platinum, the most common for jewelry.
Dog's head 2: Used for 900‰ platinum.
Dog's head 3: Marks 850‰ platinum.
Mascaron: The official stamp for platinum below 850‰, generally used on pre-owned pieces.

Thanks to these hallmarks, buyers can be sure of the quality and purity of their platinum jewelry.

When and how is hallmarking done?

Hallmarking is a crucial step carried out when a piece of jewelry is made or when it enters French territory. It guarantees the authenticity and precious metal content of the piece.

To mark a piece, a specific tool, called a punch, is used with a small hammer. The craftsman strikes the metal precisely to stamp the hallmark without compromising the integrity of the piece. To ensure a clean, lasting mark, the strike is sometimes repeated in several steps: a first application followed by four light taps in different directions (up, down, left, right).

This technique produces a clear, legible mark, essential for correctly identifying the gold or platinum content of the piece.

How do you identify a hallmark on a piece of jewelry?

1. Look at the piece with a loupe

Hallmarks are small and are usually found:

Inside a ring.
On the clasp of a necklace or bracelet.
On the back of a pendant.

A jeweler's loupe is useful for examining these marks up close.

2. Refer to a hallmark guide

Comparing the hallmark you find against a database helps identify its origin and authenticity.

3. Have the piece appraised

A jeweler can test the gold or platinum content if the hallmark is missing or worn away.

Why is it important to know gold and platinum hallmarks?

1. To guarantee authenticity

An official hallmark ensures that a piece is solid gold or platinum and not plated.

2. To estimate the value of a piece

An 18-karat gold piece is worth more than a 9-karat gold piece. Knowing the hallmarks helps you determine its value.

3. To buy and sell with complete confidence

When buying or selling gold or platinum jewelry, checking the hallmarks ensures a transparent and reliable transaction.

FAQ: Everything you need to know about hallmarks on gold and platinum jewelry

1. How can you tell if a gold piece is authentic from its hallmarks?

Gold jewelry bears guarantee hallmarks, such as the eagle's head for 18-karat gold or the scallop shell for 14-karat gold. Check these marks with a loupe and compare them with official references.

2. Where are hallmarks usually found on a piece of jewelry?

They are often located inside a ring, on the clasp of a necklace or bracelet, or on the back of a pendant.

3. My jewelry has no hallmark. Does that mean it's fake?

Not necessarily. Some antique or imported pieces may not have a hallmark, but it is recommended to have them appraised by a jeweler to verify their authenticity.

4. What is the difference between solid gold and gold-plated jewelry?

A solid gold piece bears a guarantee hallmark and contains a high percentage of pure gold (e.g., 18K = 75% gold). A gold-plated piece bears a square mark and has only a thin layer of gold over a base metal.

5. Are hallmarks the same in every country?

No, each country has its own standards. For example, France uses symbols such as the eagle's head (18K gold), while other countries use numbers such as 750 (75% gold).